Alumlprep 33 is an acidic metal cleaner and conditioner expressly compounded for aluminium. Prepares aluminium and its alloys for painting or welding. Detailed Product Description: Alumiprep 33® is a non-flammable phosphoric acid-based cleaner, brightener. and pre-paint conditioner for aluminum. Alumiprep. CERTIFICATE OF CONFORMANCE INCLUDED Alumiprep 33® is a non- flammable phosphoric acid-based cleaner, brightener and pre-paint conditioner for.

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Listing: Alodine & Alumniprep

If you consider the alclad durable enough, then by all means leave it alone! You will find that it takes longer to get that even colour you are looking for.

You cannot get the Alodine to work on without first treating with the Alumaprep Then you have the temper number, ie. Nothing wrong with that as far as I know, but if you get it right, the part almost looks like it’s anodized.

This all depends upon your definition of “durable barrier” between substrate and environment. If the part is starting to turn dark, that’s too long. Just follow the instructions for application. I guess metal prep is a real sensitive area.

Keep the part wet alumjiprep alumiprep and alodine. It is pretty much all I am doing. But the normally recomended cleaner is Alumiprep Akumniprep to cover the scratches and the other is where 2 pieces of metal are put together mosture can get traped between the pieces.


Any one have experience in using this cleaner, or can they recommend another cleaner and surface prep soluiont.

Alumiprep Metal Cleaner & Alodine Chrome Conversion Coating – Chief Aircraft Inc.

The reason I asked was to make sure my next statement or question wasnt based on incorrect data. Don’t leave the part in the alumiprep too long. So why scrape it away and scuff it up just to replace it with an alclad generated coating?

You’re eating up metal at that point. The alodine is really needed where there is no corrosion protection.

Using Alumiprep 33 before Alodine –

I was thinking that there was some more technical reason that people were prepping the alclad. No registered users and 1 guest. Then they put a 2 part epoxy primer on. Only time will tell who is right.

This is the stuff of primer wars. It would seem to me that theres no need to worry about converting the metal where the alclad is in good shape.

The alumiprep leaves the aluminum bare, and it will oxidize as soon as the air hits it. If you are doing small parts in a “bath”, remember that alodine does not last forever. These suggestions are purely based on my own years of trial and lots of error. I understand the religious debates, but there doesnt seem to be many “just clean it and dump it in alclad for a few minutes” believers out there.


They said 2 reasons. Don’t leave the part in the alodine too long. I think it comes down to your individual plans for your specific aircraft.

They use prep 33 and alodine all the time. I ask them about preping and primeing when the alumnlprep has an alkalad surface. How are you guys disposing of your spent alumaprep and alodine? After you rinse off the alumiprep, don’t let the part dry off.

Therin lies the variable of what each builder considers the best, most durable barrier for their airplane and it’s intened useage. Who is online Users browsing this forum: A few suggestions about it’s use: The question, why scuff up or “prep” alclad before treating it with alodine. Some that are sheet metal specialist. Alclad is a top layer of pure aluminum applied to the for corrosion protection. The bottle states not to alumnilrep on high copper alloy aluminum.

It will come out with a “chalky” tone too it. It will turn out fine.